Embrace the chaos

Garrett McNamara made history as the first man to surf a 100-foot wave, but his journey was far from easy. Behind the scenes were countless challenges—injuries, setbacks, and a dedicated team of spotters, trainers, and riders. “Without them, I’m nothing,” he once said. Even after dislocating his shoulder and breaking his upper arm, McNamara persevered, and in 2013 at age 44, he set the world record in Nazaré, Portugal.

“Fear is something we choose. Fear is when we are not in the moment. When we choose to think about the past or think about the future, two things that don’t exist. In big wave surfing, the only thing that exists is right now..” - McNamara says. 

This mindset applies beyond surfing—whether on the field or in life, being fully present slows everything down. Use these challenges as motivation to refine your approach. Stay connected, both physically and emotionally, and immerse yourself in the moment.